The Yeet22 Hammer or the SY22 are probably your best bet for a pistol format. IDK how well those two work since I haven’t built them. Most other 3D2A 22LR are larger format either PDW or rifle sized. There’s the DeAR22, MP-22, Scarpion22, and of course the 10/22. If you want a single shot 22 that’s a lot of fun, you should look at the HitchHiker. It’s an open bolt single shot 22lr build and it only costs ~$100 to build.

https://x.com/wnypoker/status/2023143685949378857 This gives you the links to run a mirror of the Index locally so you don’t have to grab files manually.

Check out CTRL Pew and the GCI Wiki. They have guides on how to get started. The software you need is called a slicer and they are free. Slicers turn the 3D sculpture of say a gun or a silencer and turn it into something the 3d printer can understand. Most people use Orca Slicer or Prusa Slicer. Definitely get started making non gun things to get the hang of your printer and then you can start making guns and silencers.

https://ctrlpew.com/gatting-started-guide/

https://wiki.guncadindex.com/index.php/Main_Page

People might sell them eventually but it kind of doesn’t make sense to. There’s a ton of regulatory hoops to jump through since they’re still NFA items. There’s also the logistics of running a company that has to deal with customers inevitably blowing up their silencer.

I could see where it might make sense to sell a plastic 22lr can but nothing else makes economic sense.

If you really want a plastic silencer, you’re just going to have to make it yourself. The Centuri Carbon is $300 and can easily print silencers for $5-50 each depending on what you’re making. If you blow it up, well you should have another tax stamp ready to go and just print another one.

The bore on the Rimfire can is actually 0.32” and a 32acp is 0.312”. I figured if I did this, I would just oversize the bore by adding a 0.35” negative cylinder to the bore.

Also, it looks like that printer is around $300. Why not just get a Centuri Carbon? It’s basically the same price but enclosed and can print PA6CF which would cover most of your 3D2A needs

What’s your budget for a printer and what do you want to print?

Thank you for all you have done for the 3D2A community! I know you had a tri-lug adapter for the 4.5pcc/5 rifle cans in an experimental stage. Will you release that in the future?

Neither of them are in CA. I don’t know what exactly the state can do since they’re both outside of the state’s jurisdiction.

I think either one works well. I prefer the strength of the U-bolt on the UBAR but you wont go wrong with either. Heck, why not print both and see what you prefer?

If you’re looking for a relatively easy DIY build, I would actually go with the Decker 380 or even the HitchHiker in 22lr. I would recommend the Thru Bolt 380 mod as well sine it’s easier to assemble. It only costs about $120 to build and doesn’t require a welder like the FGC9. It’s way easier to assemble. DECKER 380: https://guncadindex.com/detail/RELEASE-Decker-3.0.1:d DECKER 380 THRU BOLT https://guncadindex.com/detail/Decker-Bolt-Thru-1.0.2:e HITCHHIKER https://guncadindex.com/detail/HitchHiker:e

I had a FTN 4.5 PCC approved. I submitted a screenshot of some filament, the Breek Blast Shield, and an Aluminum tube. The descriptions were along the lines of “Aluminum tube from Amazon to be used for the serial number”

My description for how I build it was, “I WILL PRINT OUT OF PLA+, THEN EPOXY AN ALUMINUM TUBE FOR THE SERIAL NUMBER AND THEN A THREAD ADAPT THAT I BUY ONLINE”

That should work just fine. The trigger isn’t anything special but it’ll certainly get the job done.

Amy milspec LPK will work. I’ve used PSA, MAF and several others.

You can get the cam surface in metal by using SCS and just print out the rest of the super safety. https://guncadindex.com/detail/No-Drill-SCSSS:4

You’re welcome. I used Silencer Shop for mine but any NFA site like National Gun Trust should also be good. I’m sure they are all very similar to each other.

1. Correct. They will all have to submit forms for any future purchases.
2. Yes, you can set up a gun trust with yourself as the only individual on it.
3. N/a see above
4. N/a see above
5. Not necessary with a revocable trust. https://budgeting.thenest.com/need-tax-id-number-trust-grantor-dies-24838.html
6. Please use your own money and don’t set up a bank account. https://nfalawyers.com/myth-bank-accounts-gun-trusts/
7. If you set up the trust, any taxable events will be reported on your 1040. If you get an EIN and set up a set up a bank account, you will file a 1041 instead. The only taxable events I can think of would be from a sale of an item from the trust. That doesn’t normally happen with NFA. If you do sell something, then I would investigate the potential tax burden for it.
8. Don’t overthink it and have fun

https://guncadindex.com/detail/300blkFDE-Filled-Nylon-Settings:c

The FTN5 rimfire and the FTN4 series are okay in PLA+. I’m filing dozens of tax stamps now. I’ll start printing them off in PLA+ and then if/when I blow through them, I’ll upgrade to a QIDI Q2 and print them off in PA6-CF. Granted most of my cans are for PCCs which is a lot lower pressure/wear than 223/308

I’m just planning on submitting 5 every night until I get +100 silencers. Then I may start doing a few SBRs too.