TURDS are far easier to make and are proven to run, you can even get them laser cut for dirt cheap from SCS.

RAPCO 911 black and forget about it.

Probably too much cooling, for PLA+ I never use full fan.

I would bring the bed temp down some and keep the heat the same or down to 220. Cooling settings?

You will need to dial in your support interface settings and cooling then, also if your bed is too hot or cold it can warp. For PLA+ I usually stick at 55-60c.

I can try this, sick.

What is it doing? Warping? I also would recommend tree supports, and make sure supports only come from the bed plate not starting on the part either.

I’ll probably try it out since the new flow through can prints way easier for me. Had to use the tight breek because the original one had too much play and caused bore misalignment. So far so good now.

Yeah lol I never anneal either. Too lazy, my NYLAUG, STG, DB9, and DEAR22 have been fine for awhile.

I have a question about the FTN.5 and the printed shell, is a 14" barrel safe with the printed shell?

A lot lol

No, it will be in beta soon.

I mean yeah, a new barrel by itself is more than the parts kit typically. Only downside is finding 9x18 makarov, but if you got it with the kit, you could buy a .380 barrel later and have 2 calibers. It’s an easy barrel swap, like a handgun.

I got the bowman kit but I am not sure how that one compares.

I can get those later but the cuts weren’t bad at all just require some dremel work.

Numrich has good kits if you plan to reweld later, but bowman has good kits with barrel included.

As far as frames go, ATRH, my remix and there is an AR trigger version I can’t remember who makes it though.

Not really a handgun but skorpion vz61 parts kits are cheap and plentiful and they are super easy builds. One of my favorite guns to this day.

I really think it will work.