Doppelmembran-Würgenippel

@ExcessShiv

I have bought some cheap petg noname stuff which prints without issues at 40% rh in the room.

Another roll transparent petg dont work without drying. Its strange.
Maybe it depends on additives how much water it will get into the material

Very strange.

I see there a lack of information from the manufacturers too. No one specifiy the needed storage conditions

@ExcessShiv

Easy, there…

But would you tell the type of filament and the humidity around the printer/the moist material lenght too?

@nieceandtows

Would split it lengtwise, print as two parts and glue the parts later.

@deafboy @EvilCartyen

Antenna: smaller than 17cm for 868 sucks.
Dont use these if you dont need this small size like for fit a small node in yozr pocket never use this inefficient things in places where you can put a real antenna.
Dont know how tight the budget is, there are very cheap options if needed with good performance.

Solar for the european winter: a 5v solar panel with more than 500mA real current (like 30 or 35 “chinese watts”). Look for panels with sizes like 15x30 cm or bigger

Get a big battery for the winter weeks with no sun. 5Ah at least. Combine this with nrf52 based hardware.
So a 5Ah cell will be charged from a 0,5A solar panel with 0,1C charging current. This low currents are not critical in cold temperatures.
Bigger battery = lower charge current (current per battery capacity) 500mA for a 10Ah battery will be 0,05C current only. With this small charging currents normal li-ion cells are useable in the winter too.

@ExtremeDullard

There is less material than needed all over the place, look at the not bonded perimeter lines on the top corner.

Measured the real filament diameter before printing and corrected the slicer settings to the measured diameter?

Are the extruder steps calibrated?

If iam to lazy to reslice, i would increase feedrate to around 106% and look at the following layers if the gaps are closed mid print.

This can be seen at layer 2 and corrected while printing

@Prunebutt Yw

@Prunebutt

There is no seal like an o-ring.
It is bare metal to metal surface contact.

If there is a gap between nozzle backside end and heatbreak because the outer hexagonal part of the nozzle hit the heater block first (before the nozzle get tight at the heatbreak), it will leak through the treads and ooze out on the top.

If you can rotate the heaterblock after heating up the nozzle, then there is proof of the inside gap.

On a new hotend i disassemble it before mount it into the printer, screw in the nozzle in first and then turn it back half a turn.
Then screw the heatbreak in until it reaches the nozzle. Install it to the printer, heat to max used temperature, and tighten the nozzle again.

The heater block has bigger thermal expansion, so it tends to get loose by heating up.

If done correct you will never have problems like this, if the mating surfaces are even and not damaged.

@Prunebutt @Fenderfreek

Its not about torque only.

If build up correct, the nozzle flange does not touch the aluminium heater block. There must be a gap, can be a tiny gap.

You dont want to screw the nozzle against the block, but you want to screw the nozzle backside face (around the filament bore) against the heatbreak end face. This is the place where you close the oozing hole, the threads are not tight against liquid plastic.