Hello! I hope it’s ok to post questions like that here. I have ALWAYS had problems with Monsteras and their leaves browning and dying off. I always thought it might be a too dark or too sunny location. Now I’ve made some new living room space and I thought maaaybe this spot would be good (bit away from a large window, lots of light but no direct sunlight hits it)

But once again the leaves turn brown, just as they did with the regular Monsteras I had. I tried spraying them with water for humidity, but no help.

So now I wanna ask if anyone has an idea what could cause this? If there might be something I’m obviously doing wrong?

Any help would be greatly appreciated <3 🌿

  • The_v@lemmy.world
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    27 days ago

    I have kept a mosteras for many decades. A few basics. The brown spots on the edges are usually too much water (causes N deficiency), salt buildup, or lack of fertilizer.

    Watering, the pot should be saturated then allowed to completely dry out. Don’t pay attention to the soil, look at the leaves. When the plant is drought stressed they have a slight dimpled look. The leaves appear duller and not as shiney. Salts- the are very sensitive to water softeners. Do not use water that has been softened.

    Fertilizer - they do best with slow release fertilizers. For conventional fertilizer you want polymer coated. For organic you want manures aka something that takes time to break down.

    Salt leaching- you need to leach the pots at least every couple of years. The smaller the pot the more often it is needed. Flushing a bunch of water through the soil removes salt buildup.

    Pot size- ignore everything anyone says about pot size for monsteras. They always get rootbound in any pot but they don’t care. You can grow giant ones in a 1 gallon pot. A larger pot = less frequent watering and fertilizing. For most of my plants life I kept it in an 2 gallon pot for ease in transport.

    Light: monsteras are tree climbers. In low light conditions they grow away from the light looking for a tree trunk (small leaves with long internodes. If you want big beautiful leaves, they need 4-5 hours of direct sunlight. Preferably in the early morning or evening.

    • mourningcrows@feddit.orgOP
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      27 days ago

      That’s a lot of super useful knowledge, thanks for sharing! I thought I already watered them quite little, but it seems it’s still been too much! Your comment also makes me consider to move it further towards the windows to maybe get bigger leaves

  • pr0xy_prime@lemmy.world
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    27 days ago

    You got to give us a little bit more detail. How much sun is it getting? How often are you watering and how much? Did you check for pests? Did you ever fertilize the soil? What kind of soil are you using? Is there drainage at the bottom for the extra water to go somewhere?

    • mourningcrows@feddit.orgOP
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      27 days ago

      Thanks, good point!

      I usually water it once a week, but check with a finger that the soil doesn’t dry out completely. I’ve only just bought this one about three weeks ago, so I haven’t used fertilizer yet, soil is the one I got it in. No pests from what I can see. There are drainage holes in the pot, but maybe I should make sure that inner pot doesn’t stand directly on the bottom of the outer one? It doesn’t get direct sunlight, but it is about 2m from a south-facing windowed wall.

      • stubbytoe@slrpnk.net
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        27 days ago

        Also, I can see that your plant is right next to a humidifier, and misting the leaves doesn’t raise humidity as much as people think (it’s negligible). I would refrain from letting water stay on the leaves, it might lead to fungal problems. In nature, there is a lot of wind and aeration going on, but not as much in our homes 🌪️

        • mourningcrows@feddit.orgOP
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          27 days ago

          Oh I definitly had that misconception! Since winter air is really dry here I thought that might help. So you think the humidifier alone should do the job or should I put that away as well?

      • stubbytoe@slrpnk.net
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        27 days ago

        The top layers of the soil dry out a lot faster than the bottom layers. Deepening on how large the pot and volume of soil is, often when your finger comes out dry and you think your plant needs more water, the rest of the soil is still wet and your plant is still trying to absorb that.

        I recommend using the “chopstick method” or my personal favourite - “picking up your plant and seeing how light it is”.

        Chopstick method

        Gently stick a chopstick in the soil, being careful not to damage any roots. If it comes out dry, then the soil is dry. If it comes out mostly dry but the bottom 20% has some damp soil sticking to it, then 20% of the soil is still hydrated. From this, you can decide if you want to water your plant depending on what it likes. In this case with your beautifully variegated monstera, as the person before me mentioned, they’re adapted to dry spells, so if the chopstick is dry you can wait a few more days before you water.

        Picking up your plant and seeing how light it is

        Self-explanatory, feel how heavy or light the pot is. I like this because it lets me get to know my plants better, but I also understand that it’s not for everybody.

        Hope this helps, it sounds like you’ve placed your monstera in a good spot so it should be happy there :)

        • mourningcrows@feddit.orgOP
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          27 days ago

          Thank you so much!! I think it’s great to learn other people’s tricks, that way I can try to see what works best for me and my plants! Shame that I haven’t thought of just picking up the plant to see if it’s lighter or not, seems like such an easy thing to do with smaller plants

      • pr0xy_prime@lemmy.world
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        27 days ago

        Like everyone else said, water less frequent. I water mine every 2 weeks or so. Its also possible that there is water sitting at the bottom of the outer pot so even though there are drainage holes water still has nowhere to go. Its also spring time great time to fertilize. Some places sell slow release pellets that you pit on top of the soil and it fertilizes every time you water. Definitely change the soil too, that’ll do a couple of things. Fresh soil will have nutrients, if it’s root bound you’ll get to detangle the roots and give them room to breather, can even trim some excess roots but if you do that make sure you use sharp cutters and sanitize then with rubbing alcohol prior to use (that goes for any trimming you do). Changing the soil will also let you check for root rot (caused by overwatering). Repotting can be a daunting task, especially if it’s a bigger plant but dont be scared, there are a ton of super helpful step by step videos online. A lot of places will also do it for you either for a small fee or in some cases for free if you do it at the same spot where you bought the plant. Not an expert by any means, just some stuff I learned a long the way as a plant owner. Good luck. Hopefully you save it. Worst case scenario take some cuttings of leaves that are still good and try to propagate it.

        • mourningcrows@feddit.orgOP
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          27 days ago

          Thank you for your input! I think too much water really was the problem here. I hope it can recover, because sadly it’s a new and pretty small plant, so I can’t take cuttings of good leaves :')

  • goobergoob123@lemmy.world
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    23 days ago

    I think adding liquid potassium silicate to your watering routine (0.5ml-1 tablespoon per gallon) every 1–2 weeks to strengthen cell walls and prevent heat/drought stress. It is particularly effective for reducing browning on variegated plants (like Thai Constellations) by fostering thicker, healthier leaves.

    How to Use Silica for Plant Care: Watering Additive: Mix liquid silica into your water first, letting it sit for 10–20 minutes, before adding fertilizer.

    Foliar Spray: Lightly mist leaves with a silica-water mixture 1–2 times per week for faster uptake. Soil Amendment: Mix solid forms like diatomaceous earth or rice hulls directly into the soil to improve long-term nutrient availability. Dosage: Use a lower concentration (e.g., 0.5 ml per gallon) frequently (every watering) rather than high doses to avoid nutrient lockout or fertilizer burn.

    Benefits of Silica: Reduces Browning: Strengthens cell walls, preventing, for example, the browning of new variegated leaves, says this TikTok video. Increases Resilience: Improves resistance to heat, drought, and pests. Better Metabolism: Increases nutrient absorption, leading to stronger, more structured foliage.

    Note: Silica is not mobile within the plant, so regular application is necessary to protect new growth.

  • Poach@lemmy.world
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    27 days ago

    It looks like you’re getting the browning on the variegated areas. They lack chlorophyll. It’s always going to be difficult to not get those areas to not brown.