PSA, RTB, CMMG. Doesn’t matter where you source it. They’re all under the same patent and design from the original CMMG. Just sold from different retailers. I bought mine from PSA because they have the best price.

However, the BCA AR22 bolt is a different design and requires a BCA 22lr barrel to match and is not compatible with CMMG style AR22 dedicated barrels

As for printed 22lr bolt designs, the builds that have DIY bolts are normally for that design and that design alone. I dont think I’ve seen anyone run a printed version of a CMMG AR22 bolt. They’re cheap enough that its not usually worth it to print one.

Learning 3D Modeling in this space helped me switch careers and earn more money. Build those skills people 💪🏻

Qd insert is from Hyperion2A and yes the front sight post is from SCS. Still working on the sights.

PETG is way more brittle than PLA and NEVER recommended for printing anything 3d2a because it shatters on failure as a opposed to cracking or splitting.

I do not think it is wise to give advice on printing guns if you do not have any prior knowledge on the subject. You can get someone injured or worse.

I think your overthinking the seams my guy. Your print orientation and the angle at which your layer lines run matters way more than seams. I have never had a lower separate at a seam. If your printer and filament are well calibrated, and you’re printing with an orientation that makes sense for the strength of the part, then you’re good to go. If you’re getting good layer adhesion, it shouldnt matter where your seams end up. Especially on a large part like a lower.

Fixed versions are uploaded, the ugly ducking is no longer ugly

I would add a block inside to tie all those pieces together. Otherwise theres quite a few gaps in there where a separation could occur later.

Didn’t realize there was a demand for a fixed buffer tube adapter. I’ll whip one up when I get home.

Thats what attaches to the picatinny rail.

Looks to me like he removed the ability for it to fold. I suppose I could make a fixed version of these.

I hate you! Nah jk. Jokes aside, was there an issue with my remix? Does it need more beef 🤌🏼?

I appreciate it man. I went ahead and rebuilt the profile in the 0.6 nozzle version and after recalibrating everything, it seems to be working well.

So I swapped to a 0.6 nozzle. If I change the setting in Orca to 0.6 from 0.4. It wont let me use your 3mf profile. So not sure if im understanding your post. Youre saying all the has to change is the line width? Nothing else? Or should I rebuild your profile in the 0.6 and then make sure all line widths are 0.5 like you say.

I’ve done some testing and got about 200 rounds through one frame. It’s done really well so far for PLA+. I opted to leave the grip safety area alone to preserve some strength. I should also note that ive only tested with 9mm. 45 or 10 mm would probably not hold up as well unless printed in pa6 as you suggest.

Very cool. I’m excited to see that detent delay system. I’d like to see that system added to UMP 11/9 at some point.

Did I miss the holdup release? I remember seeing it in beta but I dont think I’ve seen anything on it for a while.

I would SBR mine but I dont wanna deal with the hassle of notifying to cross state lines. Suppressors though 👌🏻. All my builds are getting AT LEAST one lol

I have to agree. Also, the Ok Boomer has a very specific print orientation to be successful according to the docs. From the pictures it doesn’t look like it was at the 22° as specified.

Yes. Blanks will be included in the final release. One without the S&W logos and one without any of the square cutouts and logos.

Got my 9mm RIA kit from Advanced Tactical. The doublestack trigger and mag catch I’m ordering from ebay.

Pla+ is what I use. Filled filaments having a texture to them doesn’t seem the best for magazine parts that slide. Not to say that you can’t, theyd probably wear in after a while. Maybe that new high temp PLA (can’t remember the name or brand) would be a good option.