Brand matters not just the type of nylon and fill. You can try polymakers 612. I know their 12 is a bit expensive otherwise sunlus 12 is decent and cheap.

The concern for moisture is overexaggerated. Without moisture it is too weak and will break. You want moisture. Pa6 is by far one of the weakest filaments when dry and is unsafe when dry. Any coating on the outside is very difficult to keep water tight when moving parts are involved and is more work trying to recoat it for no real benefit. If you live in the swamp, then use other filaments like 12, 612, ppa, etc but as someone who lives in a hot humid environment, pa6 is still good and stronger than pla. The lower rigidity when wet isn’t enough to cause issues. Higher rigidity is nice to have for some stuff and would be why I use the others.

I haven’t dyed anything so don’t know about that. What is your reason to seal it? I have yet to see a worthwhile reason. It either wears off so is pointless or people want to seal it for the wrong reasons. For other things like texture, there are easier methods.

Drilling is simply a necessity caused by typical fdm printing. The top is going to bridge so will sag unless using support material with 0 z height. Even then, it won’t stop the layer stepping and drilling is needed to get as close to a perfect hole as possible for pins to fit as best as they can.

That way is ideal but takes longer. For people wanting to shoot asap, I typically suggest a wet sponge in a container for 2 weeks.

I drill when I build and that’s after annealing and moisture conditioning. There should never be any concern of cracking unless the print itself is bad.

The 11" spring. The latest 1.2 guide was updated. All my designs use the same materials wherever possible. It helps to keep cost down and simplify design by re-use.

I’ll post this here so everyone can see instead of the chat.

There’s ar spring jigs to make you own springs or the cm-1 fcg.

I’ve updated the files with alternate length bolts. The guide now also explains one way of measuring headspace since I got asked that a lot.

Likely an issue with tolerance stacking. With rs22 it’s a bit harder to adjust since the barrel can’t be moved in easily. It would be best if I release bolts with different length options so people can choose the right one that fits.

Eventually I’m going to do a different design (replica this time) with a receiver in a chassis bolt action with a multi piece receiver so headspace can be adjusted easier.

Polymaker states 3.3% at 72F 70%rh. Getting to 5% requires submerging in water for several days and I’d worry about the metal parts if you do that.

I’m trying to see why he’s claiming only pla can survive. If he has 20 years of experience, I remember back in the day when everyone kept claiming pa6 was too weak to use yet nowadays it’s the complete opposite and seen as one of the best because the simple knowledge of water.

Moisture conditioning.

What was your conditioning process for any of the pa?

I’ll need to tighten the adapter tolerances then.

Rs22 barrel should be the most stable attachment with the pins going all the way through the receiver. So is the play in the adapter to barrel or adapter to receiver? If there is any need for a brace than something isn’t fitting correctly.

It’s all the same bcg and barrel design. I’d consider ar22 standardized with different 22lr ar types having different names like sw15-22 or bc22. I meant price. Factor in the barrel cost and rtb bcg in a combo is roughly $85.

It’s just matching rtb bolt+barrel combos. I think psa has a higher shipping cost too, I’ll have to look at my orders.

You can go farther in or just use something else to keep it down as it cools. Screwdriver works. Make sure to keep it straight. Then cut off the excess that pushed out around it.

They specify ambient air at 70% rh. There is no room for interpretation.

What you read was their wet testing method which says submerged in water at 60c for 48h which oversaturates to 5.3% when equilibrium to air is 3.3%. Testing is a harsher environment as others may use their prints in wet environments. We don’t submerge our guns in water so we care less about the wet test results nor is it the ideal moisture conditioning method.