Awesome write-up. Hopefully this helps everyone that needs it. One thing you didn’t seem to go over is greasing/oiling though. How important is it to grease/oil your glock to ensure reliability?

Awesome. Any plans on a dark-mode? Because… MY EYES

Thanks for this thorough response. I probably should of mentioned that I’m not a noobie when it comes to 3d-printing fundamentals, calibration, etc.

That’s good to know. I initially wanted to print PA6-CF, but was skeptical of longevity concerns. I also wouldn’t say he “brain washed” me. I was looking into it and first looked on Bambu’s website comparing the dry state and wet state, and the wet state bended significantly more than the dry one. I just assumed that would cause some sort of failure, especially since we’re putting external parts into a printed frame.

Wouldn’t humidity cause any frame In PA to eventually suffer enough creep to just fail?

As it’s just a matter of time before the ATF cracks down on improvised suppressors, I wonder what they are going to restrict / regulate. I imagine probably thread adapters? Is there a possible future concern of them regulating thread adapters? I don’t think so because thread adapters can be used for cars, which gives you plausible deniability in that regard. What do you guys think?

Hi, thank you very much for the reply. I thought there was something missing, and it was the hardened gears, so I’ll be sure to pick those up and replace those. I do have some more follow up questions if you or someone else doesn’t mind answering them:

1. My p1s is in my closet where it prints, but I was wondering how safe this would be with moving up to filaments that have much more fumes than PLA. My idea is to use the enclosure and have an air filter in the closet, or next to the door. Would this be satisfactory? Should I change any preset fan settings in OrcaSlicer to mitigate the fumes?

2. You say 300blkfde’s settings are a go-to, but would I be able to just use the Fiberon PA6-CF preset in OrcaSlicer and just run through the calibration options? I prefer to do it myself to make sure there is no problems.

3. I currently have the textured pei plate for my p1s, and was wondering when glue is absolutely necessary. I’ve only ever printed PLA+, but I’ve never had any adhesion issues, ever. Must I truly use glue or purchase that plate to ensure there is no issues? (Excuse any possible ignorance here.)

4. I know the filament should absolutely be dried before use, but should it also be dried during printing? And if so, how hot should it be drying during printing?

5. What precautions should I take when taking a new PA6-CF print off the plate? I’ve read that it could be harmful to your skin. Should I wear gloves and a respirator when first managing it? If this is true, what is needed to be done to the object to ensure it’s safe to breathe next to and manage with no gloves?

6. When annealing, does part fitment become affected? I’ve only ever printed PLA+, so I’ve never annealed or accounted for any shrinking, but all my PLA parts fit very well with no modifications.