• 7uWqKj@lemmy.world
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    5 months ago

    The British one. It has a switch and a fuse, and later versions have age-verification so your kids can no longer plug in your adult toys.

  • Ek-Hou-Van-Braai@piefed.socialOP
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    5 months ago

    In my opinion it’s Type-F

    Because:

    • It’s bi-directional
    • It’s grounded and ungrounded plugs use the same socket
    • It’s already widespread (50+ countries) source
    • Your fingers can’t touch the live wire as you’re plugging in a wire
    • It’s recessed
    • Low footprint
    • Accepts Type-C
    • Localhorst86@feddit.org
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      5 months ago

      Accepts Type-C

      It took me a few seconds to realize you werent talking about shoving a USB Type C plug into there.

      • Ek-Hou-Van-Braai@piefed.socialOP
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        5 months ago

        C is mostly for low power devices

        F is basically a heavy duty upgrade of C, it’s got grounding on the side and can handle 16A (ovens, heaters etc.)

      • Strider@lemmy.world
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        5 months ago

        The type-C shown in the picture is also not the only form it has and maybe partly misleading, the plug usually is significantly smaller and flat, and power strips can feature multiple of those in less space.

    • The Infinite Nematode@feddit.uk
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      5 months ago

      I see a lot of your comments about F being objectively same or better compared to G. The only thing I’d throw into the mix is the socket switch feels so logical, I’m really surprised it’s not more standard.

      High frequency use case: I don’t need my microwave on all the time showing me the time, so I switch it off at the socket unless I’m using it

      Low frequency use case: before going on holiday I switch all the electrics off at the sockets

      • Mac@mander.xyz
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        5 months ago

        I never understood why every appliance in the kitchen needs to display the time. lol

      • RaivoKulli@sopuli.xyz
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        5 months ago

        Socket switch isn’t really a feature of the socket itself. I’ve had schuko sockets with switches. It’s just not as common

    • Anivia@feddit.org
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      5 months ago

      Because:

      • It’s bi-directional

      This is very convenient, and not a problem in 99.9% of cases, but there are some devices where it’s important to not have the hot and neutral wire swapped

    • azertyfun@sh.itjust.works
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      5 months ago

      Furthermore, appliances compatible with Type F are almost always compatible with Type E as well, it’s just a matter of including both grounding mechanisms which they all do to avoid designing multiple cords.

      I haven’t yet visited the UK so the only time I’ve had trouble plugging in something in Europe is in shudders Italy.

    • LegoBrickOnFire@lemmy.world
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      5 months ago

      As the least biased swiss person. Type J (or type N, Idk) is so much better. We put three plugs on the same surface as you have 1. I am always frustrated to see how impractical your plugs are when I go to the EU

    • richardwonka@lemmy.world
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      5 months ago

      Bi-directional is a double-edged feature.

      It means that there is no reliable way of identifying line and neutral wire, which requires more complex double switches downstream.

      Also, F is unnecessarily clunky and big and hard to make a weather-proof version of because of the complex shape.

    • Rinox@feddit.it
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      5 months ago

      Hear me out, type L, the one in the middle, is the best socket, as it has all the things you talked about, but also accepts Italian plugs.

      Type L bipasso (the one on the side) instead is the most space efficient, while retaining type C compatibility and grounding. Type L plugs also have plastic bits at the end to avoid contact with live wire (like UK one).

    • Tja@programming.dev
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      5 months ago

      And type-E. Most EU plugs are F-E compatible, because countries go about alternating them. Spain F, France E, Germany F, Poland E. You build a plug with a hole for the E ground bolt and a cutout for the F side contacts.

  • slazer2au@lemmy.world
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    5 months ago

    Type I

    Earth pin doesn’t cause the plug to murder your feet like the UK plug.
    Angled pins to prevent cross polarisation.
    Localised power switch per socket so you can turn something on or off with your toe and not bend down to unplug it.
    Looks like a ghost face and when in the double gang formation the switches when on looks like the plate is high.

      • GreatAlbatross@feddit.uk
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        5 months ago

        And the thin pins means that with any weight (wall-wart, etc.), it starts to come out.
        Doubly so if it’s set into thin plasterboard that already wobbles.

    • SomeoneSomewhere@lemmy.nz
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      5 months ago

      Also:

      Thin stamped construction is cheap, but can still be fitted with sleeving on the live (active and neutral) pins like UK & europlug, but not US plugs. This prevents objects or fingers getting to live pins on a partially inserted plug.

      Industry has agreed that leads exit either straight out, or down-and-right, so there is no conflict for horizontal or vertical sockets. Sockets are universally installed earth-down.

      Reasonably compact.

    • Redjard@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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      5 months ago

      Some images of the plugs, since I didn’t know what they looked like.

      It was mentioned the pins started being insulated like that second image 20 years ago, but going by the images I found the older uninsulated style is still more common. This is ofc a major shock hazard when plugging in your stuff.

      Even with the insulation, you can still reach under the half inserted plug, just less easily and maybe only if you have smaller hands (like children).

      Fundamentally flat sockets are doomed to be shock hazards, compare it to the recessed sockets where the entire surface the contacts insert into is cut off from reach before the pin insertion starts, and on top of that the pins of say type F have been insulated for so long many don’t know there were uninsulated variants.

      Another bonus of the recessed style is the plug doesn’t stick as far out of your walls. For extension cords it’s probably a bit bulkier, but when you sink the recession into the wallbox of the outlet you can get as flush as the width of the cable with an angled plug.

      Also pretty sure you can step on angled type I plugs resting on their backs. The recessed plugs usually have grips on top so can’t rest on their back even when angled. Their pins are also ball-shaped on the end, type I looks quite angular and more painful.

      • unknown@sh.itjust.works
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        5 months ago

        I live in Australia and I just did an audit of the power board that was sitting next to my bed. All four devices and the power board itself all have the insulated pins. I can’t remember the last time I saw one that didn’t have insulated pins. I’m sure they exist, but they are not common.

        We also have RCD on all our circuits so if someone is able to short the pins, it will trip within 20ms or less.

      • ms.lane@lemmy.world
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        5 months ago

        Ironically, those are upside down.

        Which usually indicates Chinese Type I - they don’t insulate pins but do put earth on top.

        We insulate pins but live/neutral is on top.

        • Redjard@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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          5 months ago

          Oof, I see.
          Kinda a bad look for type I when some of the users follow a different spec and ruin all attempts at improving safety or even keeping standards like earth being down.

          In comparison the european plugs are moving closer together, for example F+E combo plugs are increasingly common.

  • Hossenfeffer@feddit.uk
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    5 months ago

    Easy. Type G. For safety. If you’re worried about night-time attacks from ninja you can leave a few plugs by your bedroom door and windows with the pins upward. They will rue the day they entered that room in the dark!

  • fullsquare@awful.systems
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    5 months ago

    Type E and F plugs are not really a thing anymore, today it’s more common to find combined Type E/F plugs.

    Fuses in british plugs are a mistake and only a requirement because of sketchy practices allowed in british electrical code immediately after WW2. Nobody else does that because nowhere else electric code is built in such a way that it is necessary. Switch seems to be mildly useful tho

    • Victor@lemmy.world
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      5 months ago

      F plugs are the only type I’ve ever seen in all of Scandinavia, Germany, Spain and The Czech Republic. Never in my life have I seen an E plug or anything resembling a variation of E+F combined in any way. Only F. I don’t understand how you can say they “are not really a thing anymore”.

      You mean not a thing in the UK?

      • fullsquare@awful.systems
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        5 months ago

        UK uses type G. Type E/F plug has both contact for grounding pin like in type E and two sliding ground contacts on side like in type F. Sockets are either E or F, and i’ve mostly seen E

      • cepelinas@sopuli.xyz
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        5 months ago

        Went to Poland for a few days and encountered the type e plugs and I immediately hated them because they interfere with chargers and they weren’t reversible.

      • mumblerfish@lemmy.world
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        5 months ago

        I thing it is about the cord vs the plug. The plugs are as they are in the picture, but most cords are in F+E configuration. That is, there is the ground plates on the side of the cord (F) and there is a hole in the cord with a springplate to connect to the ground thingy in thr plug (E). I have two extension cords at home of the same brand, one in E and one in F configuration, but all my cords are compatible with both. I’m a bit unsure on this, but I may have seen a plug with E+F configuration in a country which usually goes E, but definetly never in a country with F config.

        • Victor@lemmy.world
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          5 months ago

          I think you mean plugs vs sockets. I was talking about sockets, but I mistakenly wrote plugs. I think I misunderstood the original comment in that regard.

    • cynar@lemmy.world
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      5 months ago

      Fuses mean protection is localised. If the socket is good for 13A, but the cable is only safe to 5A, you can fuse at 3A or 5A, and know it’s safe.

      This is partially useful for extension leads. We don’t have to worry about overloading a multiway extension. If we do, it will pop a 10p fuse, rather than cause a house fire.

      • fullsquare@awful.systems
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        5 months ago

        Or you could just use thicker wires like everyone else, or drop the use of ring mains, which is the actual reason why fuses in plugs were introduced. The reason why this was done was post-WW2 copper shortage. In other countries you’ll see more likely star type circuit

      • hobovision@mander.xyz
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        5 months ago

        Are you really going to change the fuse in the receptacle when you plug a different cable in?

        Low amp rated extension cords are dangerous unless they have a fuse in the cable. Best practice is to always use a cable that is rated higher than the circuit breakers.

        • cynar@lemmy.world
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          5 months ago

          The fuse is in the plug itself. It goes with the cable. That’s the point of it! 🤣 It lets you down rate your cables from the breaker rating.

    • dcat@lemmy.world
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      5 months ago

      this is totally wrong. type F (“schuko”) is the main standard in europe.

  • captainlezbian@lemmy.world
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    5 months ago

    I really think we should give japan more shit for this. Type A is terrible on it’s own merits, they don’t even polarize it. But then they have the gall to use two different frequencies with the divide in the middle of Honshu (the big island with the major cities). And unlike reasonable people they don’t do a “50 hz gets this plug, but 60 gets a non compatible one”. No, both use the plug that North America phased out over safety concerns.

    But to answer the question, type B is nice and homey, but types I and N feel a fun mix of weird and foreign but close enough to be interesting. Most of the rest just feel like various “yeah it’s a circle with two circular prongs all right”

  • cynar@lemmy.world
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    5 months ago

    For safety, the BS1363 (UK, type G) is by far the best.

    • It’s fused. (Seriously why the hell aren’t all plugs fused!)

    • Live and neutral can’t be reversed.

    • Holes are gated (so no kids sticking spoons in).

    • High capacity, 240V at 13A gives 3kW of power.

    It’s only real downside is its size.

    • umfk@lemmy.world
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      5 months ago

      Fusing plugs is completely unnecessary. The only reason this is done in the UK is because of old janky circuits only used in the UK.

      • pulsewidth@lemmy.world
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        5 months ago

        Wrong, it’s fused because in the UK they have 32A 240V circuits, a fuse is important when dealing with that much current. In Australia we only have 16A 240V circuits as standard so there is no need for a fuse.

        • umfk@lemmy.world
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          They have fuses because of their ring circuits from after WW2. You’re the one who’s wrong.

    • fullsquare@awful.systems
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      5 months ago

      Type E/F carries 16A/230V, and nowadays there are shutters included which only allow two pins to be inserted at once, not one but not the other. There’s no standard as of which pin should be L1 and neutral anyway, nor it should matter, and fuses in british plugs are to accommodate ring circuits, which were introduced as a result of copper shortages (ie decades of tech debt)

    • Treczoks@lemmy.world
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      Using fuses on outlets is fake security. You can put two 10A devices on a circuit, and the fuses won’t help. What’s important is that you have fuses for each line.

      All socket holes here are gated, too (Type F), but I have to admit there are grandfathered ones without gates in older installations. And we have 16A @ 240V.

      I have to admit that the idea of switches in each outlet is in principle a good one, but it makes the outlet way larger than other types, and adds extra complications that can break (yes, I had to fight with one like this in the UK).

      • cynar@lemmy.world
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        5 months ago

        The fuses aren’t to protect the circuit, they protect the end and intermediate devices. The breakers protect the actual circuit.

        E.g. you’ve got a thin flex for a low power lamp. You don’t have to worry about a short allowing 40A to flow down a 2A cable.

        • Treczoks@lemmy.world
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          5 months ago

          How many cheap import lamps do have an appropriate fuse?

          And the short circuit 40A is better covered by a fast-acting breaker.

  • CetaceanNeeded@lemmy.world
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    5 months ago

    It’s obviously the one in the country I live in. All the others that I have had zero experience with are from Satan.

    • xep@fedia.io
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      5 months ago

      Yup. Japan also has grounded outlets, though, although they are comparatively rarer.

      • 鴉河雛@PieFed@pf.korako.me
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        5 months ago

        I recently had a house built, and most of the outlets do support grounding.

        However, it’s not very common to actually use them — many appliances don’t have grounded plugs, or the shapes don’t match.

        I’d say only things like washing machines, microwaves, and rice cookers tend to use them.

        線のときはつなぐ

        U字のは繋げない、PC関連に多い

    • VivianRixia@piefed.social
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      5 months ago

      I see the left side of just slightly bigger than the right, so I expect one of those sides to be the ground

    • ZoteTheMighty@lemmy.zip
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      It’s the oldest standard on the list, and is still around older homes in the USA. They used to be equally-sized (aka unpolarized), but later on they had a bigger hole for neutral (polarized). They’re not up to code anywhere anymore though, you’ll only see them in older houses before the grounding pin was required.

    • Zak@lemmy.world
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      In the USA, there’s a ground in that the neutral wire is connected to ground. Devices that take advantage of this have a slightly broader neutral pin that won’t fit into the hot pin.

  • AllNewTypeFace@leminal.space
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    5 months ago

    As someone who lived in the UK, the British one is far too chunky, especially in an age where most devices don’t use the mandatory earth pin (which is mechanically necessary to open the shutters in the socket). The one place it has an advantage over Europlug is in aeroplane seat sockets and such, where it stays in more firmly.

    Having said that, the Swiss and Brazilian ones manage to get earthed connections into a slender footprint (the Swiss is compatible with unearthed Europlug, not sure about the Brazilian though it may be smaller). Apparently the Brazilian socket was proposed as an international standard by the IEC, though only Brazil adopted it.

      • AllNewTypeFace@leminal.space
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        5 months ago

        Interesting. How far along is South Africa’s adoption of it? Are they appearing in newly built houses or on appliances? And how are they handling the transition?

        If 2-pin Europlugs won’t fit into a Type N, Europe may be better off in adopting the Swiss variant (which they do fit).

        • Ek-Hou-Van-Braai@piefed.socialOP
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          South Africa used to use a Mixture of M and C, and still mostly do.

          But since 2018 building regulations require new houses to have at least one Type N plug installed. Adoption is slow, but N being compatible with C will hopefully speed things along.

          • acockworkorange@mander.xyz
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            5 months ago

            Brazil just set a date limit after which no electrical equipment was allowed to be sold with non standard plugs. Eventually it all worked itself out.

  • I_NEED_A_NAME@feddit.org
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    5 months ago

    I would argue that neither of the plugs shown in the picture nor those mentioned by others are the best.

    Ignoring current adoption, I think that IEC 60906-1 is the best plug. It is very similar to the Swiss plug and was intended to, at least in the EU, replace other plugs. It has quite a few advantages over the other plugs. It is rated at 16 A, has a compact form factor, is polarised, and has almost all the common protections except fuses (which are pretty much useless anyway). Currently it only is used in South Africa without major changes to the plug.

    Compared to the Schuko (Type F):

    • Much smaller. You can fit three plugs in the same space as a single Schuko plug (similar to Swiss triple outlets).
    • It takes less force to plug in. Above 2.5A, Schuko plugs require a lot of force to plug in and pull out. To some extent, this is actually good for safety, but I would argue that, in the case of Schuko plugs at least, it’s too much
    • It is also easier to plug in without seeing the plug since it isn’t round. Everyone who has tried to plug in a Schuko plug without seeing the holes knows how difficult it is
    • It’s polarised/directional. In some very specific cases, there is a security advantage to using a polarised plug, but I think it’s also a hassle to only be able to plug in a plug one direction. It also fits Europlugs (the thin, small plugs with only two pins that are very common in Europe, e.g. on phone chargers)

    Compared to (Typ G)):

    • Wayyy smaller
    • Not a stepping hazard
    • Rated for 16A (instead of 13 A)
    • No Fuse (Again, pretty unecessary)

    Regarding three-phase power, I would argue that Swiss type 15 (10A) and type 25 (16A) plugs are the best. These are really cool because while beeing the same size as Schuko (Typ F) plugs, they can transfer three-phase power (so 11 kW; 230 V / 16A on all three phases). They also fit standard Swiss single-phase and Euro plugs. This makes plugging in large appliances like electric stoves much easier than in other countries.

    I would find it quite cool if most countries switched to one common plug, and I think IEC 60906-1 would be best for that. It would also be possible to build hybrid sockets for many common plugs during the transition phase.

  • rmuk@feddit.uk
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    5 months ago

    G.

    The plugs are shuttered, so they’re protected from being stabby-stabbed. The plug’s prongs are sheathed so live metal is never exposed, negating the need for recessed sockets. Compared to recessed plugs, it takes less force to insert/remove them, but the oversized prongs and their triangular arrangement means it can safely withstand more lateral stress than any other plugs. Every plug has a fuse appropriate to the appliance so every device has appropriate protection while also allowing any device to be used on any outlet - no need for dedicated outlets for tumble dryers. And the plugs are traditionally right-angled, so once they’re plugged in they only protrude about a centimeter, making it easy to plug things in behind furniture.

    The whole ‘every plug has a switch’ thing is bullshit, though. That’s just weird.